By Patricia@trigin.com | December 18, 2013 at 01:18 AM EST | No Comments
We're done scanning the photos we removed from the frames. Now what? Don't start putting those photos back into their frames just yet!
In an ideal environment, pictures are handled as little as possible. If you aren't worried about minor discoloration by exposure to light, putting them into frames seems like the perfect solution...But what about the next generation of genealogists who are most definitely going to want to know what it says on the BACK of the photo?
There are several ways to handle this, but I will tell you my favorite method. First, though, I want to explain why I DON'T put the information in front of the photo.
You could put the information from the back of the photo onto a decorative slip of paper and place it in front of the photo, positioning it so that it doesn't obstruct the focus of the image. There are three problems with this. First, you know that someone is going to come along and wonder what is under the paper. Second, if you've ever removed a photo from behind a mounting mat after several years, you can see the slight fading that occurs where the image wasn't protected from the light. Now imagine your slip of decorative paper protecting one spot on your photo. Many years from now, you may find that you have a spot that has escaped the fate of the rest of the photo--in the shape of your decorative paper.
Last, but not least, space in photo frames is limited. How will you decide what to cover up? I never can. That is why I opt for this technique:
You will need a photo marking pencil that is white or black. In some cases, on lighter surfaces, a pencil or ballpoint pen will work. On black surfaces, an archival safe gel pen stands out and won't smudge like some pencils can. Since I don't have one, I use the white photo marking pencil in this case.
Find the frame that the photo originally came from. If you were here for Scanning Day 52, this will be an easy task. The filenames from the back of the photos are on the back of the frame they came from.
Now, transfer any pertinent data from the back of the photo to the backing mat on the frame. If you're planning on reusing the frame later, and do not want to write directly on the back, there are other options:
Use the aforementioned decorative paper to write the captions and tape it to the back.
Or my favorite...
Add a self-sticking photo mounting sleeve to the back of the frame to hold your paper. This option is my favorite because it inflicts less damage to the backing.
Now your descendants won't have to fight with the frame to see what's written on the back of that photo. To stop the overly curious ones from checking to see if there is another photo sandwiched in there somewhere, you may opt to write a little note that says something like, "This is the only photo in this frame." Of course, if they're really determined, none of your efforts will stop them. But we tried, right?
Now that I've told you my favorite (cheap) method, I'll share another method which is more time consuming and costly.
If you have a photo printer, you can print the photo with the handwritten captions strategically positioned on the front. Use these prints to display your favorite pictures and store the originals in a safe place.
If you don't like any of the options I've mentioned, you may try looking into digital photo frames. I'm not impressed by them, but I can see the benefit of using one instead of exposing your photos to the elements.
Whichever method you decide upon, do as much as you can in one hour. We'll finish the rest tomorrow. Take care and have fun!
By Patricia@trigin.com | December 12, 2013 at 03:44 PM EST | No Comments
Yesterday, we collected framed photos to be labeled today. You'll need a #2 pencil, a black ball-point pen and/or an archival safe photo marker. Also useful - a photo pencil that has both white and black writing tips (to write on the back of the frame).
IMPORTANT: This is where the hard and smooth writing surface comes into play. DO NOT write on a photo until you test your writing surface. If it is too soft, the writing instrument WILL damage the photo. Dull your pencils slightly to avoid tearing and don’t press too hard on the pictures. The process:
1) As you remove each photo from its frame, to ensure that the pictures go back in the correct frames, write the filename as unobtrusively as possible on the back of the picture AND on the picture frame's backing. If a frame has no historical/sentimental value in combination with the photograph, you may choose to skip writing on it.
Instead of writing the filename on the mat directly, you may opt to use masking tape. If you do so, first make the tape less sticky by gathering a bit of lint on it--stick it to your pants or other cloth.
2) Set the frames aside and sort your photos by size and filename. If you've written the filenames accurately they should be sorted by:
By Patricia@trigin.com | December 09, 2013 at 12:16 PM EST | No Comments
We've been working on STAMPED & LABELED photos.Since the only difference between audio labels for STAMPED & LABELED and those that are LABELED ONLY or UNLABELED is the filename, I will refer you to Scanning Day 29 - Audio Labels for Pictures that are Already Labeled for instructions.
By Patricia@trigin.com | December 03, 2013 at 06:41 AM EST | No Comments
Welcome back! Today, we're writing filenames on our STAMPED & LABELED photos from day thirteen. If you don't recall, day 13 is when we sorted our LOOSE black and white photos into four separate piles. STAMPED & LABELED is the last pile in this category before we move on. If you would like to plan ahead, we'll be working on the loose colored photos next.
STAMPED & LABELED photos require you to flip them over to scan the back. They take longer than the labeled photos because the filename is not generic. You must locate the stamp and write it exactly how it appears on the picture.
IMPORTANT: This is where the hard and smooth writing surface comes into play. DO NOT write on a photo until you test your writing surface. If it is too soft, the writing instrument WILL damage the photo. Dull your pencils slightly to avoid tearing and don’t press too hard on the pictures. The labeling method introduced here combines the different methods we used on the STAMPED and on the LABELED photos. It still sorts by owner name, type of label and by date OR film batch and will sort front before back and keep them together. NEVER WRITE OVER pre-existing labels or markings. If a photo has no room to write a filename on it, set it in another pile to scan later.
EXAMPLE FILENAMES:
Front: PLB_SL_####_A.JPG (written on back) Back: PLB_SL_####_A0001.jpg (not written on the photo)
Key to the example filename
PLB = Collection owner identification. In this case it is first, middle and last initial.
SL = Stamped & Labeled. Why even bother with this? Well, later, when you look back at this photo, you will know two things:
The stamp indicates that there may be other photos from the same batch sorted nearby.
There is another file out there with the scan of the back of the image.
#### = stamp number or date. Use date format YYYY_MM_DD for sorting purposes.
A = Assign a different letter of the alphabet each day you scan/label to avoid long filenames and accidental duplicate numbering If you aren’t done by the end of 26 days, use double letters. That’s a big project!
.JPG = Or .gif or whatever file type you are saving images as. (Side note, for those of you who don't already know: gif is pronounced JIFF, not with a hard g.) NOTE: When you flip the photo over, you can hit scan again without changing the filename. If your scanner is anything like mine, it will add 0001 to the end of the filename to avoid writing over the previous image. Test this before using this method.
I have been known to use "front" and "back" in the filenames instead of allowing the auto numbering. It is self explanatory to people viewing the photos for the first time.
ALTERNATE SAMPLE FILENAMES: PLB_SL_####_A_FRONT.jpg (written on back) PLB_SL_####_A_BACK.jpg (not written on photo)
I suggest discretely pre-labeling the pictures with the filename you intend to use. Label approximately 100 to get you started. On black and white photos with paper back, use a #2 pencil. On newer surfaces use either a black ball point pen or a photo-safe permanent marker. Do not used colored inks.They bleed over time. It’s not pretty.
I hope this has been helpful. If you have any questions, the fastest way is to contact me through my twitter account, although you can send me an email through our contact form.
Enjoy! Or rather, think about how much you will enjoy being done. See you tomorrow on Twitter for Scanning Day 44.
By Patricia@trigin.com | November 26, 2013 at 11:40 PM EST | No Comments
We've been working on STAMPED & LABELED photos. We're going to add audio labels to some of them over the next five days. You may choose, instead, to pull out your still unlabeled photos, as holiday gatherings are perfect to get help with identification.
By Patricia@trigin.com | November 20, 2013 at 09:52 PM EST | No Comments
Welcome back. Today we're working on preparing STAMPED & UNLABELED photos for scanning.
Stamped & unlabeled photos are those with a number or date stamped onto the back OR front and WITHOUT handwritten labels.
Stamped, but unlabeled, photos don’t require you to flip them over to scan the back UNLESS there is a unique stamp on the back. When in doubt, add it to the Stamped/labeled pile to be scanned front and back later.
IMPORTANT: This is where the hard and smooth writing surface comes into play. DO NOT write on a photo until you test your writing surface. If it is too soft, the writing instrument WILL damage the photo. Dull your pencils slightly to avoid tearing and don’t press too hard on the pictures.
The labeling method introduced here for this type of photo is similar to the one we used on the unlabeled photos. The major difference is that, while it sorts by owner name and type of label, it's most important feature is that it sorts by film batch. This is extremely useful when you have an enormous amount of loose photos. The stamp identifies which other photos may have been developed on the same roll.
I suggest discretely pre-labeling the pictures with the filename you intend to use. On black and white photos with paper back, use a #2 pencil. On newer surfaces use either a black ball point pen or a photo-safe permanent marker. Do not used colored inks. They bleed over time. It’s not pretty.
NEVER WRITE OVER pre-existing labels or markings. If a photo has no room to write a filename on it, set it in another pile to scan later.
EXAMPLE FILENAME: PLB_S_####.JPG
Key to the example filename:
PLB = Collection owner identification. In this case it is first, middle and last initial.
S = Stamped & Unlabeled. Why even bother with this? Well, later, when you look back at this photo, you will know there wasn’t a mistake in scanning. You didn’t forget to scan the back - there wasn’t anything on the back to scan except for the number, which you’ve included in the filename.
#### = stamp number or stamp date. Use this date format for sorting purposes: YYYY_MM_DD. I use an under-bar to clearly identify that the stamp was a date instead of a batch number.
.JPG = File extension. Yours may end in a different extension--whatever file type you are saving images as. If you have any questions, the fastest way is to contact me through my twitter account, although you can send me an email through our contact form.
Your challenge for today is to write filenames on approximately 100 or as many as you can label in a half an hour. Enjoy! See you tomorrow on Twitter for Scanning Day 32!
By Patricia@trigin.com | November 18, 2013 at 11:47 PM EST | No Comments
We’re taking a break from scanning labeled photos because, frankly, it can get boring. We're going to add audio labels to some of them today. There are already labels on the images, so why are we recording as well?
There’s rarely enough room on the picture to tell the whole story. Furthermore, written labels only give one person's interpretation of events.
If you have one, a digital recorder can be invaluable. Use it to record your--and everyone else’s--memories of each picture.
The simple method:
Gather your family around the pictures. Press record.
Read the filename first
Give your full name
Tell your story
Have each person give their name before telling their story
****Press stop between each photo****
When you upload the audio files, rename them to match the filename on the image (this is why we read the filename into the audio).
The file extension will be the only difference in the filename. For example, our image is labeled:
PLB_L_1001_a.jpg
When we save our audio in W.A.V.E. format, the filename for this photo would be:
PLB_L_1001_A.wav
Things to consider while recording:
You already know to answer the questions regarding what the event is, when and where it took place, why it occurred, who was involved...
Don't forget that every object in the photo has a story as well.
Feel free to give your honest fashion critique. When did you get that couch? It might narrow down a time if you don't recall the "when" of the event.
Sometimes the focus of the image isn't the biggest story. If you've already scanned the pictures in, enlarge the images to see things that can be missed by the naked eye. If you're lucky, you'll find people and pets lurking in the shadows.
Encourage other family members who aren't present to do the same by sending them a disc of the photos. Explain the process to them. The only difference is that they'll need to adjust the filename so that your files with identical names don't accidentally get written over.
Make a list of the family members you send the photos to. Give each a unique number to add to the end of the filenames.
When you're done scanning and labeling, you will have a plethora of stories to choose from to help you create your video diaries, scrapbooks and other projects.
To find out why I chose to do audio labeling, click here.
By Patricia@trigin.com | November 14, 2013 at 09:00 PM EST | No Comments
Why do I put filenames on photos? When I first started scanning, I had a trial-and-error period that made me want to tear my hair out. I had scanned 800 photos, not even thinking to write anything except for captions on them. Later, someone moved my pictures, taking them out to look through them. They didn't see my "clearly" sorted piles of scanned and to-be-scanned photos. They mixed them all up and I had no idea which ones had been scanned.
Who would waste time digging through files on the computer to see if even a single photo is there? Not I. I opted to rescan the 800 photos.
THE TOP 5 REASONS TO WRITE FILENAMES ON PICTURES
Unless a photo is unstable, unable to be written on, I prefer to put filenames on pictures before I scan for the following reasons:
#5 If you write filenames on a batch of photos beforehand, you don't have to stop between each scan to write on the photos.
#4 It keeps you focused on ONE task - scanning. I find that if I add too many tasks to the scanning process, I consistently slip and forget to do an important step.
#3 You want to make a copy of a set of photos that you think you've already scanned. Well, if you have filenames on them, a quick search of your computer's directory will tell you if your photos are there.
#2 You're interrupted from your scanning task before you write filenames on the photos. Oops! Someone disturbs your area and mixes them up. If you'd written on them beforehand, a printout of your file directory would quickly show you which filenames you already scanned in.
#1 The number one reason to write filenames on photos is to make archiving easier for future generations--the inspiration behind your scanning project. The next person to go through the pictures knows that they've been scanned and where to find them on the disc you've conveniently included.
Still not convinced that writing filenames ON the photos is a good idea? Tell me why. I'm eager to learn. Change my mind, if you can.
By Patricia@trigin.com | November 13, 2013 at 03:06 AM EST | No Comments
Before I discuss file names, I would like to give you a bit of encouragement. If you've even scanned one day out of the past twenty-three, I'm excited for you. Scanning takes a long time. It took me two years of free time just to scan my grandmother's memories.
I have a theory that the scanning itself isn't very enjoyable at all. The fun is in the initial discovery of the images and documents and in the final product. The comfort in knowing that there are two backup copies of all 8000+ of my grandmother's memories is priceless.
Now, onto the filename selection.
NEVER WRITE OVER preexisting labels or markings. If a photo has no room to write a file name on it, set it in another pile to scan later.
We have moved on to LOOSE LABELED photos. The loose photos are ones that aren't bound and are NOT in their original developer's envelopes. The labeled photos are ones WITHOUT stamps. (We will cover LABELED & STAMPED photos just before we do negatives.)
I was asked why I sort loose pictures by size first. When I received the boxes of my grandmother's pictures, there were two boxes filled with loose pictures that had curled and were being further misshapen by the weight of other photos. Sorting them by shape keeps them from getting further damaged by gravity. Larger photos should never be stored on top of smaller ones.
The second reason was that it is easier to scan in groups of similarly shaped photos. You don't have to change the scanner's settings as often. It also reduces the amount of time you spend cropping out white space later.
Labeled photos take twice as long as unlabeled and unstamped photos because you must scan both sides. Consider this when you decide how many photos to write file names on. For today, choose a method of naming your files and write them on the smallest of your loose labeled photos. For your convenience, I have posted my methods below.
Sample Filename(s): Front: PLB_L_####_A.jpg (written on back) Back: PLB_L_####_A0001.jpg
Key to the example filename:
PLB = Collection owner identification. In this case, it is first, middle and last initial.
L = Labeled, unstamped. Why even bother with this? Well, later, when you look back at this photo, you will know there is supposed to be a second file containing the scan of the back of the image.
#### = Start with 0001, 2nd photo would be 0002...
A = Assign a different letter of the alphabet each day you scan/label to avoid long filenames and accidental duplicate numbering. Restart the numbering each day as well. So 1st day would be _1001_A. 2nd day would be _1001_B. If you aren’t done by the end of 26 days, use double letters. That’s a big project!
.JPG = Or .gif or whatever file type you are saving images as. You can skip writing this down, to save time.
NOTE: When you flip the photo over, you can hit scan again without changing the filename. If your scanner is anything like mine, it will add 0001 to the end of the filename to avoid writing over the previous image. Test this before using this method.
I have been known to use "front" and "back" in the filenames instead of allowing the auto numbering. It is self explanatory to people viewing the photos for the first time.
Sample Filename(s):
PLB_L_####_A_FRONT.jpg PLB_L_####_A_BACK.jpg
I hope this has been helpful. If you have any questions, the fastest way is to contact me through my twitter account, although you can send me an email through our contact form.
Enjoy! Or rather, think about how much you will enjoy being done. See you tomorrow on Twitter for Scanning Day 24.
By Patricia@trigin.com | November 09, 2013 at 10:06 PM EST | No Comments
My mother is rapidly losing her vision. Time is running out for her to answer questions about our pictures. In an ideal world, the pictures would have been labeled the day they came home from the developers' with a photo disk included.
Unfortunately, this is not the case. I have thousands of photos from my youth that weren't labeled. Most of them are still in their original envelopes.
What can you do if you have a family member that is running out of time?
The methods outlined below are ones which I've used and find to be both time-saving and fun for the whole family.
WHAT YOU'LL NEED:
-Audacity or other audio recording software
-Quality microphone that plugs into your computer (I use a Logitech USB headset)
-Volunteer to write file names on photos -Sorting system -Method of sharing the images with the person doing the identification.
THE PROCESS:
1. Your volunteer will write file names on the photos. These go in a box set aside for photos that have filenames but aren't ready to be scanned. We labeled our box "Ready for Audio."
2. The person with the memories will take them from this box and record details into Audacity. For family members who aren't computer savvy, you may need another volunteer to help during this process.
Each picture has it's own audio file. If the whole envelope is filled with the same images, be sure to say that on the audio. In this case, only produce one audio file, but indicate the beginning and ending file names for this batch.
The file names for the audio will match the ones for the images. Only the file extension will change.
PLB_U_0001_A.jpg is my image
PLB_U_0001_A.wav is my audio file.
If you have more than one person sharing memories, make sure to adjust the file name (OF THE AUDIO FILE, not the image) to identify the different speakers.
PLB_U_0001_A_VB.wav is my mother's audio memory
PLB_U_0001_A_JB.wav is my daughter's audio
PLB_U_0001_A_PB.wav is my audio.
3. Once the memories are captured on audio, the pictures go into a box set aside for photos that are "Ready to be Scanned."
There is one negative, that I've found with this method. The audio files are often larger than the image files. You need to double the space available on your storage device when using an audio-labeling system.
Now for the two best reasons to use this method:
Your descendants will get a pleasant surprise when they listen to you and yours describe their memories of each photo.
You can use the audio and pictures to create a video diary.
As I've mentioned before, I don't write details on unlabeled photos prior to scanning. Why not? An unlabeled photo only needs to be scanned on one side. A labeled photo takes twice as long to scan. I'm already planning on labeling the photo--in the imaging software.
An index with details can be printed and stored with the photos, not to mention the disc with the labeled (tagged) images on it. I may, if I find I have nothing better to do, go back and label the hard copies. I don't imagine having that kind of time.
Have fun! Make new memories with this project. Take pictures of the gatherings and the interviewees. Don't forget to label them right away!
By Patricia@trigin.com | November 05, 2013 at 09:28 PM EST | No Comments
This is a day of firsts for me. Our website has been under construction for 13 years, mostly due to procrastination. Today we went live for the first time. Today is also my first time blogging.
For those of you who have been following along with the Scanning Challenges daily, skip ahead to the next paragraph. For those of you who are new to the challenge, please take the time to read the first 15 days of the challenge. You can find them at twitter.com/triginbrew.
We just finished sorting out the smallest black and white photographs two days ago. Today, we're going to label 100 of them to be scanned tomorrow.
IMPORTANT: This is where the hard and smooth writing surface comes into play. DO NOT write on a photo until you test your writing surface. If it is too soft, the writing instrument WILL damage the photo. Dull your pencils slightly to avoid tearing and don’t press too hard on the pictures.
NEVER WRITE OVER pre-existing labels or markings.
We’re starting with unlabeled photos because they are the easiest to get started with. They don’t require you to flip them over to scan the back.
Unlabeled photos are ones without writing and with no number or date stamped onto the back OR front. Please do check the fronts for date stamps. If you find any, they will be added to the "Stamped & Unlabeled" pile.
The labeling system I introduce here is one that works for me. It works well when sorting by owner name, type of label and, when stamped, it sorts by date or by film batch. There may be some kinks to iron out. Please, do research other labeling methods before deciding on one.
*example filename:
PLB_U_####_A.JPG
Whichever method you choose, discretely pre-label the pictures with the filename. On black and white photos with paper back, use a #2 pencil. On newer surfaces use either a black ball point pen or a photo-safe permanent marker. Do not used colored inks. They bleed over time. It’s not pretty.
*Key to the example filename (PLB_U_####_A.JPG):
PLB = Collection owner identification. In this case it is first, middle and last initial.
U = Unlabeled, unstamped. Why even bother with this? Well, later, when you look back at this photo, you will know there wasn’t a mistake in scanning. You didn’t forget to scan the back--there wasn’t anything on the back to scan.
#### = Number starting with 1001, 2nd photo would be 1002...
A = Assign a different letter of the alphabet each day you scan/label to avoid long filenames and accidental duplicate numbering. Restart the numbering each day as well. The 1st day would start at _1001_A. The 2nd day would start at _1001_B. If you aren’t done by the end of 26 days, use double letters. That’s a big project! This also helps you keep them in the order you scanned them in. You should be able to locate the hard copy of the image quickly.
.JPG = File extension. It could be .gif or whatever file type you are saving the images as.
So, my first unlabeled, unstamped photo was PLB_U_1001_A.JPG the second was PLB_U_1002_A.JPG and so on.
Once you choose a labeling method, label approximately 100 or as many as you can label in thirty minutes. Be careful not to write the same label on more than one photo.
Tomorrow, we scan! Have fun. Feel free to comment with questions, concerns or corrections. -Tricia